Comments on: G’day!

By: Tom

Tom — Thu, 05 May 2011 20:15:52 +0000

Final result:

Finally, I have found a solution, I can live with… .
Actually, I can attach any Af lens. If it’s a “G” type lens, it all works without any flaws. If it’s an older non “G” type lens, I close the aperture at the lens and lock it. Then of course, I get the FEE error message in the top display of the camera.
But after a while – somewhat between 20 and 60 seconds – without me doing anything – the FEE error disappears and the normal figures for aperture and shutter speed are displayed and I can work absolutely normal with the camera and take perfectly exposed pictures.
Once I turn the camera off or it stops measuring (e.g. if I set the menu so that it stops measuring after some seconds after releasing the shutter release, which I can change to indefinetely) and turn the camera back on, the FEE error comes up again and I have to wait again for some time till it works.
At least, this way I can work with non “G” type lenses after a certain “warm up” time. Better than nothing.
I don’t think it has something to do with poor electrical contacts since it works fine with the “G” type lenses. I rather think it’s another electronic issue somewhere inside the camera. And because of that (not knowing where to look for a defect) I think it’s no use to open the camera and try a repair… .

Tom

By: Richard Hornbaker

Richard Hornbaker — Wed, 04 May 2011 19:16:33 +0000

Hi, Tom.
I don’t know what to tell you on that one. I haven’t dug deeply into the lens-body signaling yet, but this fellow has: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1021&message=10974743
My understanding is that there is no difference between an AF-D lens and a G lens except the G lens has the aperture ring removed, and thus no AI “stub” to move the aperture sense ring. But I believe they both fully signal via the electrical contacts, and their apertures are equally controllable by the body via its mechanical aperture arm.
I always find that the fEE error is caused by poor electrical contact with the lens. (It’s possible the G lens uses fewer of the contacts – I haven’t checked this.) I’d recommend using a De-Ox-It pen (or just a soft cloth) on both the lens and body contacts. Also, check the physical fit of the lens mount on both parts – I run into this more often with rental lenses that have loose (bent?) lens mounts.
Cheers,
Richard

By: Tom

Tom — Wed, 04 May 2011 15:51:24 +0000

So, I’ve got the AF-D lens now, but it’s really funny.

Sometimes it works and sometimes not.

I have tried all kinds of settings (Non CPU, M, A, etc.), but whatever i do it comes down to this.
Once I turn on the camera, I immediately get an FEE error message in the top display. Then, suddenly after a while (somewhere between 10 and 30 seconds, it varies), everything works fine. even in P Mode wth no Non CPU values entered in the Menu – just as I’d use a regular “G” lens. I can then take pictures, the resluts are perfect.
But then, after I release the shutter for a while and the camera goes in some “standby mode”, everything start from the beginning. I slightly press the shutter release and the FEE error comes on and the camera blocks. Then after a while, it works perfectly again. Same thing when I turn the amera off and on again. When I’m working my way through the menue, the aperture and shuttersped digits also stay, so that means, as long as the camera is not turned of or in sleep mode, it’ll work.
So I’m convinced it has nothing to do with the aperture sensor under ther front face plate.
What do you think this could be? A software fault, an electronical problem? Remember, this does not at all occur with my other “G” type lenses.

I’m stunned…

Tom

By: Tom

Tom — Wed, 04 May 2011 05:03:21 +0000

Hi Richard,

I’m getting an AF-D lens today, so I can test it and let you know.

Tom

By: Richard Hornbaker

Richard Hornbaker — Mon, 02 May 2011 22:41:59 +0000

Oh, another thought… I believe most of the consumer bodies don’t have the “AI” aperture sensing ring, yet they’ll meter fine (i.e., read/control aperture) with all the AF lenses. Just another data point to suggest the aperture sensing ring shouldn’t be a factor for using AF-D lenses. If you find out otherwise, please do let me know!

By: Richard Hornbaker

Richard Hornbaker — Mon, 02 May 2011 22:37:14 +0000

Hi, Tom.
Your question led me to do a bunch of research, and what I’m finding so far is sketchy. It appears that aperture data from the lens should be coming into the camera via the electrical contacts that were introduced at/around the time AF was introduced. AF-D just added focal distance to the signaling for improved 3D metering. The aperture sensing ring of interest is apparently only useful for “AI” era manual focus lenses – it was an improvement on the prong coupler, but before the electrical contacts were added. So… I’m not sure if you’ll gain much by tearing into your camera. What leads you to believe it isn’t working? (You mentioned you don’t have an AF-D lens to test with.)
As an aside, G lenses wouldn’t have a need to communicate their aperture setting to the body, per se, because they are wholly controlled by the body’s aperture arm inside the mount – how far it gets moved determines the aperture size. Most (all?) AF lenses also support this mode of operation by setting the lens on the smallest aperture, which is colored orange and usually has a pushbutton to lock it there.
I hope this helps! Cheers, Richard

By: Tom

Tom — Sun, 01 May 2011 08:35:34 +0000

Hi Richard,
thanks for your quick reply!
If AF-D lenses worked, it would be allright. I know, that all “G” lenses work, since i have two. but would like to use older AF-D lenses such the 80-200 2.8. I like their ruuged design even though their autofocus isn’t as fast.
Problem is, I don’t have an AF-D lens to test that. Are you sure, they communicate the aperture sttings to the camera electronically?
Tom

By: Richard Hornbaker

Richard Hornbaker — Sun, 01 May 2011 07:40:42 +0000

Hi, Tom.
The only springs are on the aperture sense ring, and those are attached (and loosely stretched, not compressed), so you should be safe. But if I recall, you’ll have to remove a total of 9 screws plus the metal lens mounting ring to remove the faceplate; most of the screws are just behind the edges of the grip rubber, so you might be able to do it without peeling it back too far. (There’s a photo of the D2H “skinned” near the top of the post and you can see all the screws – one of them is under the CSM switch cap.)
But first I would ask what kind of lens you are using. I believe lenses with a “D” (e.g., AF-D) should be signaling their aperture and focal distance through the electrical contacts, while the aperture sense ring would apply to older “non-D” lenses. (Newer “G” lenses don’t have an aperture ring at all and are controlled entirely by the aperture stop-down lever inside the lens mount.)
Cheers,
Richard

By: Tom

Tom — Sat, 30 Apr 2011 20:58:07 +0000

Hi,

I just read your article about the D2X repair. Great.
I have a question: I’m having an issue with my D2H.
The aperture-sense ring doesn’t give any information to the cameras electronics when using a non “G” type lens. It seeams O.K. mechanically, as the spring works fine and the lever isn’t bent. So I suppose it’s an electrical problem.
I would like to take the front faceplate off, to see if the wiper contacts need cleaning or so, but I’m a little afraid, that when I loosen the screws, springs and stuff pop out and I’ll never get it back together… Any advice you could give me on that?

Thanks, Tom

By: Richard Hornbaker

Richard Hornbaker — Tue, 01 Mar 2011 17:16:37 +0000

Hi, Cody. Thanks for the info. As I recall, that was my experience as well – that the replacement D2X shutter is the same one for the D2H.